Thursday, October 19, 2006

Recycled silk lace shawl

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Drunken Daisy Stitch Lace Shawl-
Gauge isn't a big deal here. I got my recycled silk from EBay, and a bunch of sellers sell stuff that will give you massively different thicknesses/amounts of twist/gauge.It's a shawl, so, if you get big or small, no big deal. I used most of 500 grams of silk for this.
I used size 13 needles
Now, I worked in Daisy stitch; the basic method of which is

1 (RS): Knit
2 (WS): k1, *(in next 3 stitches, p3tog without dropping them from the left needle, yo, p3tog again), k1*. Repeat from * to * across row.
3: Knit
Row 4: k1, p1, k1 *(in next 3 stitches, p3tog without dropping them from the left needle, yo, p3tog again), k1* Repeat from * to * across row, end p1, k1.

The shawl pattern:

CO 5 stitches
ROW 1: (WS)slip 1, YO, work daisy (P3tog without dropping, yo, p3tog again in same stitches), knit 1
ROW 2: (RS) Slip 1, YO, knit to last two stitches, Knit the YO from previous row TBL, knit 1. You'll do row 2 for all your RS rows.
ROW 3: Sl 1, YO, work in daisy stitch (starting from the beginning of the instructions, not centering over the previous row) to last 2 stitches, P the YO from previous row TBL, Knit 1 Repeat row 3 for all WS rows.
Just starting from the beginning of the stitch pattern instructions instead of carefully making sure that all of your daisies line up exactly will get you daisies that are staggered somewhat. I liked that look, though the stitch pattern really shows very little in the sari silk, it sort of looks like snarls. Plus, the off-brand silk came apart executing the P3togs at times. I would probably do it in a different yarn next time. I liked the idea of the deconstructed look of the silk with the staggered daisies, but it didn't work out as well as hoped. If you wanted to do it keeping them nice and straight, just keep all the extra stitches in ribbing on WS, knit on RS, until you have enough for another full multiple.
The other thing you might want to do is crochet around all the edges. The shawl did stretch out terribly the first time I wore it, it ended up being a VERY narrow triangle, so I re-blocked it and crocheted around the edges.

Rio De La Plata raglan tunic



Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Raglan Sleeve Tunic- top down, in the round
Basically, you can use any of the top-down raglan calculators out there. I used the Sweater Wizard software. I just slightly modified the basic crew neck raglan, as shown in the instructions below.

Size: 39"
Needles- US 9 32" circular
Gauge: 4 sts and 6.5 rows/in

Cast on 76 sts, and work flat for now
Row 1, RS: K2, pm,k1,pm, knit 14, pm,k1,pm, knit 40, pm,k1,pm, knit 14, pm,k1,pm, knit 2
Row 2, and all WS rows till collar shaping is done: purl

Row 3: Knit 1, M1, Knit 1, YO, slip marker,knit one,slip marker, YO, knit to next marker, YO, slip marker,knit one,slip marker, YO, knit to next marker, YO, slip marker,knit one,slip marker, YO, knit to next marker, YO, slip marker,knit one,slip marker, YO, Knit 1, M1, Knit 1

Row 5: Knit 1, Make 1, Knit to marker, slip marker, Knit 1, slip marker, Knit to marker, slip marker, Knit 1, slip marker, Knit to marker, slip marker, Knit 1, slip marker, Knit to marker, slip marker, Knit 1, slip marker, Knit to last stitch, m1, knit 1

Row 7: Knit 1, M1, knit to marker, YO, slip marker,knit one,slip marker, YO,knit to next marker, YO, slip marker,knit one,slip marker, YO,knit to next marker, YO, slip marker,knit one,slip marker, YO,knit to next marker, YO, slip marker,knit one,slip marker, YO, Knit to last stitch, M1, K1

Continue, alternating rows 5 and 7 as your RS rows, till you have 7 stitches before first marker.
Next RS row: CO 16 stitches, knit to next marker, YO, slip marker,knit one,slip marker, YO, knit to next marker, YO, slip marker,knit one,slip marker, YO, knit to next marker, YO, slip marker,knit one,slip marker, YO, knit to next marker, YO, slip marker,knit one,slip marker, YO, knit to end
Next row: CO 16 sts, purl (slipping markers)to last 5 stitches, work in seed stitch

Now, keeping your first and last 5 stitches in seed stitch, continue working flat, increasing at seam stitches every other RS row (every fourth row) till you have your neck as deep as you'd like. I did mine for 5". Then join to work in the round, keeping those center 10 stitches in seed for five rnds.
When you have 14 sets of increases (just count the YO eyelets going down), put your sleeve stitches on a holder, cast on 12 stitches at each armhole, and keep working your tube, adding shaping if it suits you. I wanted a loose sweater, so I had no shaping. When you get to the dsired length, work your 10 side stitches in seed for 5 rows, then divide for front and back, keeping your 5 edge stitches in seed, till vents are as long as you'd like, then work 5 rows of seed and cast off.
SLEEVES:
Pick back up the stitches on the holder (I did my sleeves two on two circular style, to make sure that they matched), pick up 12 stitches from the armhole, and begin knitting in the round. I did my decreases every 10 rounds to the elbow, then left them straight, so they would look like they flared. When I got to the wrist, I worked the center 10 stitches in seed for five rows, divided to work back and forth, keeping 5 in seed to each side, and worked another3", then worked all stitches in seed for 5 rows and bound off.

Collar-
I picked up all along the neck edge, including five stitches from the front seed stitch, and worked in seed stitch for five rows and bound off. I then worked single crochet all along the neck edge, down the plackets, and was done.

red fuzzy baby socks

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Materials: Approximately 1 oz fingering weight wool, small amount mohair, size 0 and size 1 dpns

Directions:

With size 0 needles, cast on 36 stitches with the mohair yarn.

Work in K1P1 rib for 10 rounds.

Switch to fingering weight wool, and size 1 needles.

Work in stockinette for 15 rounds

HEEL FLAP

Knit across 9 stitches, then turn back and purl 18.

Row 1: Sl 1 K 1 across

Row 2: Sl 1 P across

Work for 10 rows.

Turn heel:

Row 1: K 11, SSK, K1, turn

Row 2: Sl 1 P 5, P2 tog, P 1, turn

Row 3: Sl 1, K to 1 before space, SSK, K1, turn

Row 4: Sl 1, P to 1 before space, P2 tog, P 1

Continue Rows 3&4 until all stitches worked (10 stitches remain)

K across, pick up 9 stitches and running thread along heel flap, knit across instep, pick up running thread and nine stitches along other side.

Begin gusset decreases.

Rnd 1:

Ndl 1: K across to last 3, K2tog, K1

Ndls 2&3: K across

Ndl 4: K1, SSK, K across

Rnd 2: K all needles

Repeat until there are 38 stitches remaining.

Work in stockinette for 10 rounds.

Begin toe decreases.

Rnd 1:

Ndls 1&3: K across to last 3 sts, K 2 tog, K1

Ndls 2&4: K1, SSK, K across

Rnd 2: K all needles

Repeat until you have 7 stitches on needles 1&4, and 6 on needles 2&3. Then decrease every round until there are 3 stitches on 1&4, and 2 on needles 2&3. re-arrange your stitches so that you have an even number on top and bottom. graft closed, make another sock!

Yay more happy pattern goodness!!!